Happy Christmas Everyone!
Hope that you are all enjoying a good Christmas period and the excess eating and drinking is under control??
I am planning to have a "dry" month in January to detox from the excesses of December.
All is very well and I´m going to fill you in on the time I spent staying with my Cousin and her family for Christmas.
Chris (my Cousin) and her family (Hugo, husband; Danni, 14yr old son; Becky, 12yr old daughter) live about 15km outside Mendoza in a village called Chacras.
Chacras had everything you needed and was very pleasant (the Hampsted of Mendoza so I´m told!). I was fortunate enough to be staying in my own private cottage (available for rent if anyone´s interested!) and it was certainly the extreme opposite from Hostel life!
I made the most of my time with family by being spoilt rotten and recharging my batteries from the previous adventures.
My greatest pressure was the stress of trying to predict the date Honey (a Boxer)would give birth and to how many puppies. Honey obliged with seven gorgeous puppies on Saturday 22nd; my guess was 5 and the 20th respectivley.
Apart from this I simply enjoyed glorious lazy days spent by pool (because I was labelled a milk bottle), eating and drinking well (especially Fernay Coke, thanks Hugo).
Peace was shattered occasionally when the neighbours 5yr old triplets came round to play and ended up causing bedlam in the pool.
I learnt a great many things about life in an Argentine family and feel privileged to have been give the special insight. There were many occasions when I was shown the sights and welcomed into strangers homes that would not happen in the UK. I enjoyed fantastic Asado (BBQ)with so many different cuts of meat all cut with exceptional care and preparation. Never have I had so much meat!
On Christmas Eve we had our Christmas Dinner (Asado) and when Midnight arrived we were able to watch the hundreds of fireworks going off before swapping gifts and celebrating.
Then a little reminder of England as the heavens opened to give us a good soaking!
Anyway now heading further south, to the southern tip of South America, Ushuaia to see in 2008 in style. I will give you an update with all the gory details once the hangover has cleared!
Best wishes and good luck for 2008,
JP
P.S. Massive thanks must go to my hosts (The Roch family) who made Christmas 2007 one that I will never forget. So thank you all very much indeed.
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
Much Ado About Mendoza
Hello People,
Happily settled in Mendoza and now staying with my Cousin just outside for Christmas. Thought I would just fill you in on the last few days of travel to Mendoza and activities around.
My means of for the 11hr+ drive to Mendoza was luxury, a reasonably recent Fiat Uno (for those who don´t know what one is please have a look at the attached:) and my companion was Nico. Nico was a 25 year old from Buenos Aires who worked in expeditions/kayak tours. We shared the journey as he was visiting friends and for me it was cheaper to share the costs and get a different type of experience. We set out from BA at 16:30 on Wednesday evening and travelled through the night arriving in a hostel in Mendoza at 05:00 on Thursday.
The journey was good and travelling through the deserted hinterland gave great view of the sunset and the most amazing views of the sky at night. We stopped a few times to stop for hot water for máte and stopped at a truckers cafe for dinner (in Argentina = steak). Mate (for those who don´t know is a bitter hot Argentinian drink equivalent to tea, made in a small pot and drunk through a silver straw (with no milk or sugar!). Over the journey the taste grew on me and I became an expert in making it (not rocket science).
On arriving at the hostel (at 05:00) found there was no spare beds and so went to sleep on the sofa in the communal TV lounge. That day was pretty much a write off but allowed planning for the next few days adventure.
The following days I completed a combination of Wine tasting, White Water Rafting, Horse Riding and a Sky Dive. All really good fun in their own way and cheap compared to the costs in the UK.
The rafting, on the river Mendoza put us in boats of four (three girls and me) plus a guide (mad!). After carefully briefing on the dangers and "buffalo fines" we were kitted up and set off (I was in the first boat of four). All went well and we stopped for a splash under a waterfall. Shortly after we restarted we went through a big rapid and suddenly I noticed the guide was flying over my head, bit strange I thought, then everything went black and I was very cold and wet (but I could breathe?). Worked out that I was under the flipped raft and needed to get out from under it quickly. Did so and proceeded to follow instructions of not to panic put feet up etc and hold onto any paddles you find. Did this and then floated down on my back through some more rapids while waiting for raft to be righted and me to be rescued. Worked out fine and was pulled out in the end. Certainly added to the experience and woke me up a bit.
Following the rafting the next activity was Horse Riding round trails in the foothills of the Andes, west of Mendoza. I have little Horse Riding experience and was slightly nervous when just put on the horse and told to ride. The ride was great with fantastic views and a peaceful atmosphere. Thankfully the horse knew the direction to go but seemed keen on a stop start approach to pacing. Suddenly galloping for no good reason only to then to suddenly put the breaks on after a few hundred yards. Enjoyable nevertheless.
Finally I tried to complete a Sky Dive, this time with more success. The location was amongst vineyards around 60km south of Mendoza. The training and explanation was good and included watching videos. The plane was small to say the least with no door on one side. I didn´t feel scared before the jump and was focused on the instructions. Unfortunately this mean that I forget to enjoy it fully. By the time I relaxed it was the end of the free fall phase. Landing was a little rough as the wind changed on our final turn (from headwind to tailwind) meaning we carried more speed that we should. Will try to upload Video at some point so you can all have a laugh.
Apart from the activities Mendoza was a very pleasant, small city. The area seems quite affluent and their are numbers of tourist enjoying the delights of the wine tasting at the Bodega´s and inputting money into the local area. Good array of shops, restaurants all add to the appeal. With all the activities and agreeable climate a very pleasant place to go.
Going to get on now and get into the Christmas spirit, or I might go for a swim in the pool!
If I don´t write again all please enjoy a happy Christmas and good New Year.
JP
Happily settled in Mendoza and now staying with my Cousin just outside for Christmas. Thought I would just fill you in on the last few days of travel to Mendoza and activities around.
My means of for the 11hr+ drive to Mendoza was luxury, a reasonably recent Fiat Uno (for those who don´t know what one is please have a look at the attached:) and my companion was Nico. Nico was a 25 year old from Buenos Aires who worked in expeditions/kayak tours. We shared the journey as he was visiting friends and for me it was cheaper to share the costs and get a different type of experience. We set out from BA at 16:30 on Wednesday evening and travelled through the night arriving in a hostel in Mendoza at 05:00 on Thursday.
The journey was good and travelling through the deserted hinterland gave great view of the sunset and the most amazing views of the sky at night. We stopped a few times to stop for hot water for máte and stopped at a truckers cafe for dinner (in Argentina = steak). Mate (for those who don´t know is a bitter hot Argentinian drink equivalent to tea, made in a small pot and drunk through a silver straw (with no milk or sugar!). Over the journey the taste grew on me and I became an expert in making it (not rocket science).
On arriving at the hostel (at 05:00) found there was no spare beds and so went to sleep on the sofa in the communal TV lounge. That day was pretty much a write off but allowed planning for the next few days adventure.
The following days I completed a combination of Wine tasting, White Water Rafting, Horse Riding and a Sky Dive. All really good fun in their own way and cheap compared to the costs in the UK.
The rafting, on the river Mendoza put us in boats of four (three girls and me) plus a guide (mad!). After carefully briefing on the dangers and "buffalo fines" we were kitted up and set off (I was in the first boat of four). All went well and we stopped for a splash under a waterfall. Shortly after we restarted we went through a big rapid and suddenly I noticed the guide was flying over my head, bit strange I thought, then everything went black and I was very cold and wet (but I could breathe?). Worked out that I was under the flipped raft and needed to get out from under it quickly. Did so and proceeded to follow instructions of not to panic put feet up etc and hold onto any paddles you find. Did this and then floated down on my back through some more rapids while waiting for raft to be righted and me to be rescued. Worked out fine and was pulled out in the end. Certainly added to the experience and woke me up a bit.
Following the rafting the next activity was Horse Riding round trails in the foothills of the Andes, west of Mendoza. I have little Horse Riding experience and was slightly nervous when just put on the horse and told to ride. The ride was great with fantastic views and a peaceful atmosphere. Thankfully the horse knew the direction to go but seemed keen on a stop start approach to pacing. Suddenly galloping for no good reason only to then to suddenly put the breaks on after a few hundred yards. Enjoyable nevertheless.
Finally I tried to complete a Sky Dive, this time with more success. The location was amongst vineyards around 60km south of Mendoza. The training and explanation was good and included watching videos. The plane was small to say the least with no door on one side. I didn´t feel scared before the jump and was focused on the instructions. Unfortunately this mean that I forget to enjoy it fully. By the time I relaxed it was the end of the free fall phase. Landing was a little rough as the wind changed on our final turn (from headwind to tailwind) meaning we carried more speed that we should. Will try to upload Video at some point so you can all have a laugh.
Apart from the activities Mendoza was a very pleasant, small city. The area seems quite affluent and their are numbers of tourist enjoying the delights of the wine tasting at the Bodega´s and inputting money into the local area. Good array of shops, restaurants all add to the appeal. With all the activities and agreeable climate a very pleasant place to go.
Going to get on now and get into the Christmas spirit, or I might go for a swim in the pool!
If I don´t write again all please enjoy a happy Christmas and good New Year.
JP
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Belting Buenos Aires!
Buenos Aires (BA) is a great destination and you should all go there, nuff said.
I have finally dragged myself away from BA after my 4 day stay turned into 10 days. The city of BA is a fantastic mix of south american lifestyle mixed in with a very deep routed European feel. The city felt massively European and particularly near the centre the tourists outnumbered the locals; surprisingly this didn´t spoil or take away much of the good feelings and atmosphere though. Daily street demonstrations for different causes added to the sense of a controlled chaos.
The hostel (http://www.portaldelsurba.com.ar/welcome.htm) that I stayed in was an old mansion flat block set over five floors. Staff were very friendly and offered insights and advice to the city that you don´t always get. Location was fantastic as the hostel was very central but the icing on the cake was an outdoor rooftop bar, complete with pool table.
One of the first things I did in BA was go on the free historical walking tour organised by the hostel. This immediately brought into sharp focus the recent troubled history of Argentina and focused on the crisis of 2001. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Argentina)
It was very easy to wander the streets feeling safe and passing sights; we visited the "pink house" (Casa Rosado, the presidential palace) where Evita and Peron made key speeches to the people and other historic sites including the city cemetery (which was almost like a mini village). Thursday afternoon we observed the weekly demonstration in front of the pink house on the Plaza de Mayo with a difference, the protesters are a group of mothers. This was a long running demonstration (30 years) concerning the disappearance of tens of thousands of individuals during years of military dictatorship in Argentina in the latter part of the twentieth century. Its a fascinating and uncomfortable story but please have a look at this page for full and accurate information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mothers_of_the_Plaza_de_Mayo.
The restaurants, bars and nightlife in BA is great. You could enjoy a great steak, nice glass of wine and take in a passionate Tango show all before heading out to party to the wee hours. Got into the spirit of things and would often sit down for dinner between 11 and 12. The end result was that you were getting back into bed at the hostel after the dawn of the new day! It was OK for a few days or so but I couldn´t do it every night.
I have finally dragged myself away from BA after my 4 day stay turned into 10 days. The city of BA is a fantastic mix of south american lifestyle mixed in with a very deep routed European feel. The city felt massively European and particularly near the centre the tourists outnumbered the locals; surprisingly this didn´t spoil or take away much of the good feelings and atmosphere though. Daily street demonstrations for different causes added to the sense of a controlled chaos.
The hostel (http://www.portaldelsurba.com.ar/welcome.htm) that I stayed in was an old mansion flat block set over five floors. Staff were very friendly and offered insights and advice to the city that you don´t always get. Location was fantastic as the hostel was very central but the icing on the cake was an outdoor rooftop bar, complete with pool table.
One of the first things I did in BA was go on the free historical walking tour organised by the hostel. This immediately brought into sharp focus the recent troubled history of Argentina and focused on the crisis of 2001. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Argentina)
It was very easy to wander the streets feeling safe and passing sights; we visited the "pink house" (Casa Rosado, the presidential palace) where Evita and Peron made key speeches to the people and other historic sites including the city cemetery (which was almost like a mini village). Thursday afternoon we observed the weekly demonstration in front of the pink house on the Plaza de Mayo with a difference, the protesters are a group of mothers. This was a long running demonstration (30 years) concerning the disappearance of tens of thousands of individuals during years of military dictatorship in Argentina in the latter part of the twentieth century. Its a fascinating and uncomfortable story but please have a look at this page for full and accurate information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mothers_of_the_Plaza_de_Mayo.
The restaurants, bars and nightlife in BA is great. You could enjoy a great steak, nice glass of wine and take in a passionate Tango show all before heading out to party to the wee hours. Got into the spirit of things and would often sit down for dinner between 11 and 12. The end result was that you were getting back into bed at the hostel after the dawn of the new day! It was OK for a few days or so but I couldn´t do it every night.
Decided once again to watch a football match but this time arranged with a company rather than with a tout! Visited the stadium of Racing Football club to watch the second leg of the Copa Sudamericana Final between Arsenal (Argentina) and America (Mexico).
The match was the equivalent of the European Champions League Final and had a bit of everything (http://www.conmebol.com/articulos_ver.jsp?id=61681&slangab=E). The atmosphere was much more intense than the Brazil match in Sao Paulo and the crowd were buzzing throughout. Fireworks were going off left right and centre and players bombarded by toilet rolls, food and other objects to hand. All were politely observed by strict looking police with big dogs, guns and batons.
The game ended with Arsenal losing 2 - 1 on the night but winning 4 - 4 due to away goals. This was just enough to set off the fans who went mad. A few fools tried to climb over the barb wire and jump the 8ft moat protecting the pitch. A few made it across only to be met by the police, one fan took a beating for the team and started fighting an officer (who had a gun) while his friends ran on and celebrated with the team. A rather large fan underestimated the jump over the moat and ended up 20ft down below swimming in the water, this spurred the police to start firing their guns to control the crowds. The crowds responded by turning on the police with rocks and fireworks. It looked like it might get ugly but the team came over to calm the fans down.
At the opposite end of the spectrum went to the Argentine Polo Finals in the Palermo district of BA. Managed to obtain a ticket from a tout and watched a passionate thrilling final. The horsemanship was amazing and the crowd were very vocal and a real mix of the population. After the 8th Chukka the match was tied at 15 all and so it went to sudden death. Following the final goal there was a mass pitch invasion (not all that sensible when horses were still moving around!) For more information on the competition look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campeonato_Argentino_Abierto_de_Polo and for you spanish speakers here is the match report http://www.aapolo.com/Default.aspx?tabid=205&language=es-AR
I tried to complete a Tandem Sky Dive as well when I was in BA but due to unfavourable weather (too windy), spent a very frustrating day waiting on the ground at an airfield. Kayaking the next day from Tigres could not be affected by the weather and I enjoyed a day trip paddling round small rivers seeing the local wildlife and summer houses of the rich from BA (this whilst avoiding other river traffic of small speed boats and jet skis!). The guide was really friendly and relaxed. We stopped at a small restaurant where the BBQ was going strong and enjoyed five courses of different meats, culminating in a massive steak. The meats were fresh, juicy and cooked to perfection; I didn´t feel much like paddling around and thought I might sink the Kayak. After a few more hours paddling we stopped at an Island with a beach and a bar to enjoy a well earned cerverza followed by a siesta. The next day my arms and body were aching though.
One of the final things that observed in BA was the shutdown of the city for the inauguration of the new president, Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/7136835.stm). Fernandez became the first elected female Argentinian president and replaced her husband Nestor. The streets were awash with people drinking and celebrating, with token gestures like free water being handed out and not charges to use the Metro system.
BA was a lively city and seemed to be a crossing point for many travellers, I made many good friend who I hope to meet again soon and enjoyed my time there. I need a rest though and so am making the 1100km journey east to the city of Mendoza to relax and enjoy the finer things in life!Sunday, December 9, 2007
Fun at the falls and bordering on the ridiculous
Hello again, currently relaxing in Buenos Aires but will save the details of the latest adventures to a future post. In this update I'm going to concentrate on the time spent at the Iguacu falls and crossing borders to get to Argentina.
My base was the small city of Foz do Iguacu which is located around 30km from the Brazilian side of the falls. I got to Foz as previously posted by an overnight 17hr bus journey. I spoiled myself by upgrading to "leito" class and enjoyed a fully reclining seat; an added bonus was the steward on board as well for good measure. The only complaint was that the DVDs shown on board were all in Portuguese, understandable as we were in Brazil, but not representative of the bus nationality mix.
My first challenge arriving at Foz bus terminal early in the morning (and being a bit punch drunk) was trying to organise a taxi to my hotel (yes, I said hotel). I had Portuguese written instructions of where my hotel was and despite showing this to the drivers/speaking the name very slowly and loudly in English (sic) was getting nowhere. Continued down the taxi line and thankfully the 4th driver seemed a bit more awake. 4th driver told the first three where I wanted to go. Which then sparked off an argument between the three as who should take me. In the end just got in the 4th taxi and left the others to it. My driver then explained in modest English that the reason the others didn't understand the instructions was because they could not read, something the ignorant "gringo" in me had not considered.
I stayed in a hotel in Foz with a private en suite room, all for 12GBP a night. I was really grateful for the break from a hostel dorm but even more thankful for the A/C in the room as Foz was hot, around 45C for most of the day and cooling to mid thirties overnight. Even though this was a hotel it had the normal South American safety standards of brown water from the taps, no hot water, loose hanging electrical wires and holes in walls everywhere. One interesting safety thing was a big red sign on the bathroom wall warning not to touch the shower due to electrical current, this was a difference between the class of a hostel and a hotel, they warn of the impending dangers!
As the bus got in early morning I was able to check in have a shower and be at the Brazilian falls by lunchtime. The falls were touristy on the Brazilian side with fantastic panoramic views and walkways into the "devils throat" which was very wet! Words and pictures cannot do the natural beauty and power of the falls justice, so I will not try, simply visit them if you are ever in South America. Made decision that I would only be here once so went on a Helicopter trip over the falls (very touristy) but well worth it for the views, flying low over the trees and suddenly hitting the river and falls was something I´ll never forget.
Day two and I tackled the madness of South America border crossing for the first time by visiting Argentina for the day. This was made complicated by the drivers of the buses stopping and waited at some border points but not others. Leaving one stranded in no mans land waiting for a bus, which always was then a different company meaning you needed to pay a second fare.
As i was a day tripper didn`t need to get a stamp to leave Brazil but needed to be stamped in and out of Argentina.
The falls in Argentina were geared around a nature reserve and was much more professional. Enjoyed trails through the forest and intimate views from close to the falls. Took a trip on a launch into the falls (very wet and cold), down the rapids (fun) and on a jeep through the reserve (long when still wet!).
Headed back to Foz for the evening and got another 90 day pass into Brazil. However the guard took my original exit papers for Brazil and wouldn`t give them back! The impact of this meant that when I left Brazil I would be facing a $90 fine payable for "losing" my paper.
The next day I visited the massive Itaipu Dam which separates Brazil and Paraguay and generates massive amounts of clean energy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itaipu). The tour inside and out was a way to pass a few hours, I´m not going to lie and say it was exciting but a bit interesting. It also allowed me the opportunity to visit Paraguay, albeit only for a couple of hours.
I left Foz on Monday 3rd and bussed across to Argentina to catch a flight from the Argentinean Iguacu airport to Buenos Aires. I got speaking to a local on the bus who advised me not to cause myself trouble and keep quiet about exit papers when leaving Brazil. I took advice and pretended to be a day tripper and didn`t get off the bus; even though I was fully loaded with Rucksack front and back. Apparently not exiting correctly means that now that I cannot enter Brazil for the next three years.
Got into Argentina fine and at Taxi rank asked to go to the airport. Another comical Taxi incident occurred as en route we hit a border crossing point? I thought something was up as I was already in Argentina? I challenged the driver who was trying to take me back into Brazil and to the Brazilian Iguacu airport!
Got to the airport and got smoothly into Buenos Aires and settled immediately. Still here and really enjoying it over a week later. Gave myself some time to catch up and I`ve published some Brazil photos to Snapfish. Please have a look if you like. Note you may need to create a password/username with Snapfish.
(http://www1.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=58551196875861691/l=333762243/g=110711905/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=58551196875861691/l=333762243/g=110711905/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB)
Otherwise hope the Christmas prep is going well for all and the dark days are not getting you down!
JP
My base was the small city of Foz do Iguacu which is located around 30km from the Brazilian side of the falls. I got to Foz as previously posted by an overnight 17hr bus journey. I spoiled myself by upgrading to "leito" class and enjoyed a fully reclining seat; an added bonus was the steward on board as well for good measure. The only complaint was that the DVDs shown on board were all in Portuguese, understandable as we were in Brazil, but not representative of the bus nationality mix.
My first challenge arriving at Foz bus terminal early in the morning (and being a bit punch drunk) was trying to organise a taxi to my hotel (yes, I said hotel). I had Portuguese written instructions of where my hotel was and despite showing this to the drivers/speaking the name very slowly and loudly in English (sic) was getting nowhere. Continued down the taxi line and thankfully the 4th driver seemed a bit more awake. 4th driver told the first three where I wanted to go. Which then sparked off an argument between the three as who should take me. In the end just got in the 4th taxi and left the others to it. My driver then explained in modest English that the reason the others didn't understand the instructions was because they could not read, something the ignorant "gringo" in me had not considered.
I stayed in a hotel in Foz with a private en suite room, all for 12GBP a night. I was really grateful for the break from a hostel dorm but even more thankful for the A/C in the room as Foz was hot, around 45C for most of the day and cooling to mid thirties overnight. Even though this was a hotel it had the normal South American safety standards of brown water from the taps, no hot water, loose hanging electrical wires and holes in walls everywhere. One interesting safety thing was a big red sign on the bathroom wall warning not to touch the shower due to electrical current, this was a difference between the class of a hostel and a hotel, they warn of the impending dangers!
As the bus got in early morning I was able to check in have a shower and be at the Brazilian falls by lunchtime. The falls were touristy on the Brazilian side with fantastic panoramic views and walkways into the "devils throat" which was very wet! Words and pictures cannot do the natural beauty and power of the falls justice, so I will not try, simply visit them if you are ever in South America. Made decision that I would only be here once so went on a Helicopter trip over the falls (very touristy) but well worth it for the views, flying low over the trees and suddenly hitting the river and falls was something I´ll never forget.
Day two and I tackled the madness of South America border crossing for the first time by visiting Argentina for the day. This was made complicated by the drivers of the buses stopping and waited at some border points but not others. Leaving one stranded in no mans land waiting for a bus, which always was then a different company meaning you needed to pay a second fare.
As i was a day tripper didn`t need to get a stamp to leave Brazil but needed to be stamped in and out of Argentina.
The falls in Argentina were geared around a nature reserve and was much more professional. Enjoyed trails through the forest and intimate views from close to the falls. Took a trip on a launch into the falls (very wet and cold), down the rapids (fun) and on a jeep through the reserve (long when still wet!).
Headed back to Foz for the evening and got another 90 day pass into Brazil. However the guard took my original exit papers for Brazil and wouldn`t give them back! The impact of this meant that when I left Brazil I would be facing a $90 fine payable for "losing" my paper.
The next day I visited the massive Itaipu Dam which separates Brazil and Paraguay and generates massive amounts of clean energy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itaipu). The tour inside and out was a way to pass a few hours, I´m not going to lie and say it was exciting but a bit interesting. It also allowed me the opportunity to visit Paraguay, albeit only for a couple of hours.
I left Foz on Monday 3rd and bussed across to Argentina to catch a flight from the Argentinean Iguacu airport to Buenos Aires. I got speaking to a local on the bus who advised me not to cause myself trouble and keep quiet about exit papers when leaving Brazil. I took advice and pretended to be a day tripper and didn`t get off the bus; even though I was fully loaded with Rucksack front and back. Apparently not exiting correctly means that now that I cannot enter Brazil for the next three years.
Got into Argentina fine and at Taxi rank asked to go to the airport. Another comical Taxi incident occurred as en route we hit a border crossing point? I thought something was up as I was already in Argentina? I challenged the driver who was trying to take me back into Brazil and to the Brazilian Iguacu airport!
Got to the airport and got smoothly into Buenos Aires and settled immediately. Still here and really enjoying it over a week later. Gave myself some time to catch up and I`ve published some Brazil photos to Snapfish. Please have a look if you like. Note you may need to create a password/username with Snapfish.
(http://www1.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=58551196875861691/l=333762243/g=110711905/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=58551196875861691/l=333762243/g=110711905/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB)
Otherwise hope the Christmas prep is going well for all and the dark days are not getting you down!
JP
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