Sunday, December 9, 2007

Fun at the falls and bordering on the ridiculous

Hello again, currently relaxing in Buenos Aires but will save the details of the latest adventures to a future post. In this update I'm going to concentrate on the time spent at the Iguacu falls and crossing borders to get to Argentina.

My base was the small city of Foz do Iguacu which is located around 30km from the Brazilian side of the falls. I got to Foz as previously posted by an overnight 17hr bus journey. I spoiled myself by upgrading to "leito" class and enjoyed a fully reclining seat; an added bonus was the steward on board as well for good measure. The only complaint was that the DVDs shown on board were all in Portuguese, understandable as we were in Brazil, but not representative of the bus nationality mix.

My first challenge arriving at Foz bus terminal early in the morning (and being a bit punch drunk) was trying to organise a taxi to my hotel (yes, I said hotel). I had Portuguese written instructions of where my hotel was and despite showing this to the drivers/speaking the name very slowly and loudly in English (sic) was getting nowhere. Continued down the taxi line and thankfully the 4th driver seemed a bit more awake. 4th driver told the first three where I wanted to go. Which then sparked off an argument between the three as who should take me. In the end just got in the 4th taxi and left the others to it. My driver then explained in modest English that the reason the others didn't understand the instructions was because they could not read, something the ignorant "gringo" in me had not considered.

I stayed in a hotel in Foz with a private en suite room, all for 12GBP a night. I was really grateful for the break from a hostel dorm but even more thankful for the A/C in the room as Foz was hot, around 45C for most of the day and cooling to mid thirties overnight. Even though this was a hotel it had the normal South American safety standards of brown water from the taps, no hot water, loose hanging electrical wires and holes in walls everywhere. One interesting safety thing was a big red sign on the bathroom wall warning not to touch the shower due to electrical current, this was a difference between the class of a hostel and a hotel, they warn of the impending dangers!

As the bus got in early morning I was able to check in have a shower and be at the Brazilian falls by lunchtime. The falls were touristy on the Brazilian side with fantastic panoramic views and walkways into the "devils throat" which was very wet! Words and pictures cannot do the natural beauty and power of the falls justice, so I will not try, simply visit them if you are ever in South America. Made decision that I would only be here once so went on a Helicopter trip over the falls (very touristy) but well worth it for the views, flying low over the trees and suddenly hitting the river and falls was something I´ll never forget.

Day two and I tackled the madness of South America border crossing for the first time by visiting Argentina for the day. This was made complicated by the drivers of the buses stopping and waited at some border points but not others. Leaving one stranded in no mans land waiting for a bus, which always was then a different company meaning you needed to pay a second fare.

As i was a day tripper didn`t need to get a stamp to leave Brazil but needed to be stamped in and out of Argentina.

The falls in Argentina were geared around a nature reserve and was much more professional. Enjoyed trails through the forest and intimate views from close to the falls. Took a trip on a launch into the falls (very wet and cold), down the rapids (fun) and on a jeep through the reserve (long when still wet!).

Headed back to Foz for the evening and got another 90 day pass into Brazil. However the guard took my original exit papers for Brazil and wouldn`t give them back! The impact of this meant that when I left Brazil I would be facing a $90 fine payable for "losing" my paper.

The next day I visited the massive Itaipu Dam which separates Brazil and Paraguay and generates massive amounts of clean energy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itaipu). The tour inside and out was a way to pass a few hours, I´m not going to lie and say it was exciting but a bit interesting. It also allowed me the opportunity to visit Paraguay, albeit only for a couple of hours.

I left Foz on Monday 3rd and bussed across to Argentina to catch a flight from the Argentinean Iguacu airport to Buenos Aires. I got speaking to a local on the bus who advised me not to cause myself trouble and keep quiet about exit papers when leaving Brazil. I took advice and pretended to be a day tripper and didn`t get off the bus; even though I was fully loaded with Rucksack front and back. Apparently not exiting correctly means that now that I cannot enter Brazil for the next three years.

Got into Argentina fine and at Taxi rank asked to go to the airport. Another comical Taxi incident occurred as en route we hit a border crossing point? I thought something was up as I was already in Argentina? I challenged the driver who was trying to take me back into Brazil and to the Brazilian Iguacu airport!

Got to the airport and got smoothly into Buenos Aires and settled immediately. Still here and really enjoying it over a week later. Gave myself some time to catch up and I`ve published some Brazil photos to Snapfish. Please have a look if you like. Note you may need to create a password/username with Snapfish.
(http://www1.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=58551196875861691/l=333762243/g=110711905/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=58551196875861691/l=333762243/g=110711905/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB)

Otherwise hope the Christmas prep is going well for all and the dark days are not getting you down!

JP

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