Monday, January 14, 2008

Charming Chile

My feet are still getting accustomed to firm ground after a few days on the water so please bear this in mind when reading this post as my brain maybe slightly befuddled.

Prior to catching a ferry I headed to Puerto Natales in Chile and enjoyed a wonderful few days exploring the National Park of Torres Del Paine.

The National Park was stunning with wildlife abundant, especially Lama, Eagles and grey foxes. Thankfully I didn´t run into one of the Pumas though I think the sheer volume of tourists (high season) resulted in humans being the dominant species. I was lucky to meet up with some like minded travellers, three girls (Swiss, German and Italian), and we ventured round encouraging one another when the going got tough (especially the biting wind!). The mountainous landscape and beautiful lakes (of many colours) reminded me of Switzerland .We also visited a waterfall and glacier that are contained within the park.

Following the visit to the park I returned to a very cosy hostel in Puerto Natales for a final night on dry land.
The ferry journey from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt was scheduled to take around 4 days and was about 1600km. All accommodation and food was included but the cost was quite high at US$370; this when comparing to travelling through other means.

The next day I checked in at the ferry terminal and tried to get a decent bunk by being pleasant to the camp member of staff.
It must have worked as I got a decent lower bunk in a group of four bunks near a window. My "room mates" were a Swiss couple and a Frenchman, all of whom were very pleasant.
The cabins were very comfortable with individual lockers, curtains, power sockets and a light in your bunk; all luxuries to the budget traveller.
The strangest thing in the cabin was being woken by the noise cows and livestock at about 5am. The cabins were above the vehicle deck and so subsequently could hear the contained goats, cows and sheep.
The most annoying thing was the Hi-de-Hi style announcements every 30 minutes of the day that made you jump out your skin (particularly the breakfast one!).

Entertainment facilities on board (the working ferry) were basic with three main areas for passengers to go; the bar, outside or a large canteen (that also became Cinema, Briefing room and Bingo hall).
Washing was interesting (and a workout) as to save water one had to pump a button repeatedly in the shower to continue the water flow. The temperature of the water varied dramatically and could not be adjusted.
The food was OK with little variation. Breakfast was scrambled eggs, cereal, yogurt and fruits.
Lunch and dinner composed of Soup followed by some bizarre attempt at cuisine. The highlight of which was Spaghetti Bolognaise during the period of rough seas and mass sickness!
There was a period of around 14hrs where the ferry left the safety of the channels and headed into open sea. At this point passengers were advised to take seasickness tablets and get fresh air as the 25 foot waves hit the ferry. Lying in the bunk that evening was amusing and I only fell out once!

Surprisingly we were allowed on the bridge at any point to observe the goings on or sit in the captains chair; initially this was very exciting (we were trapped on a boat!) but after a few days the novelty wore off and the music played on the bridge was getting worse (Meatloaf!)

The best thing on the ferry was simply relaxing for a few days and watching the world go by. This involved visiting another glacier, a tiny town (Puerto Eden) and seeing abundant wildlife.
The wildlife seen included swimming Penguins, Dolphins, Seals, Sea Lions, Condors, Albatross but no whales!

Finally on the Monday morning the town of Puerto Montt came into view and attracted the biggest gathering yet on deck. Following disembarkation headed straight for the Bus terminal and booked a bus to Pucon.

Now planning to spend a few days in Pucon (still off alcohol) and do some activities and so I update you all in a week or so.

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