Sunday, February 24, 2008

Change in Christchurch

Good afternoon ladies and gentleman I have now left Christchurch for the second time and with very different plans from last time! I have headed north towards the Marlborough wine region and a volunteer job on a farm.


When I left Dunedin the journey north was uneventful except for visiting the Moreki boulders again for the second time. We stopped in a small town for lunch and had the typical Kiwi lunch of pie. We arrived in Christchurch late in the day and checked into our motel/hostel. The weather was stunning and so we headed off to the Arts Centre and found a lovely bar to enjoy a drink in the park.


Despite already being to Christchurch I once again enjoyed the sights and sounds visiting the Art gallery, Botanic Gardens and Cricket ground.

Sadly when I watched the One Day International cricket match between NZ and England the hosts was victorious leaving the locals very happy.


I booked myself on a sunrise balloon flight from Christchurch but sadly the weather had other plans and led to the flight being cancelled (after a 04:00 phone call to check) for both days I booked. I managed to sell most of my camping possessions to Cash Convertors, for those pieces that they did not want the Salvation Army were very willing recipients.


I then took time to consider what I wanted to do next and joined Helpx, a company who connect hosts and helpers for volunteer work. I searched through the network and contacted many hosts. I found a suitable position (general farm work) near Blenheim and agreed that I would start the following day.


Therefore after a final journey north with Claire, Helen and Trevor (including a nice lunch in Kaikora) I arrived at Birchmore Farm. I am now settling into the rural life and will soon write again about all my exciting experiences on the farm.

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Crossing the South Island

Hello,

Well since I have last spoke to you I have racked up a lot of km’s crossing from east to west and back again in NZ. Unfortunately Betty is nearing her maker with the smoke and drink problems getting worse by the km. I think the end is nigh and I’ll soon be looking at a new form of transport and a new direction.

I started my journey from the northern town of Picton. Picton is the main port on the South Island of NZ for the ferries between the two islands of NZ. The town was very pleasant but had a very high number of tourists.

I headed south and west travelling initially through the world famous Marlborough wine region. The many km’s of vineyards gave way to once more stunning mountain scenery. The weather turned and large “straight” rain made driving hazardous, I stopped in the Nelson Lakes National Park district and enjoyed the damp views of the lakes.
The km’s ticked by and passing more stunning landscapes similar to the Ardeche in France with roads cut into the rocks with precarious overhangs and sheer drops! Only slowing to give way on the single lane narrow bridges and occasional ford crossing I made good speed to the town of Westport.

As I had spent a few nights without washing facilities on arrival at Westport I opted to stay at the “top 10” campsite. The site was very busy and well run; I met some Irish travellers (not gypsies!) who arranged an impromptu singsong round the campfire. I could have almost been in the emerald isle as we sipped whiskey and sang along to the guitar and violin.
I went into Westport town and discovered that there was not much to see. It gives you some idea about the availability of the Internet in NZ as when I asked in a cafe if they had Wi-Fi I was given very blank expressions and no answer.

The following morning and under a bright sun I set off to journey further south. The starting of Betty attracted much attention (and large clouds of smoke!) and I decided that this was the calls of her final death throws.

The coast road was undulating and covered in the most amazing fauna. The plants and animal life was amazing with many fantastic views and deafening noises when stood admiring the views. I continued south and made time to stop and explore the famous pancake rocks.
Stopping and cooking bacon sarnies in the heat of the sun while looking down at the beautiful blue waters made me very happy and forget about the pain Betty was in!

I then began the crossing back west across the challenging Arthurs Pass. At points the gradients were between 10 and 20%, Betty was struggling with the road to say the least. Sorry to be boring but the views were once again stunning with snow capped mountains and beautiful valleys.
At the summit of the pass was a great viaduct; when stopping to admire the view Betty was attacked in a bizarre manner with the local bird life pecking at the lower end.
Towards the western end of the pass the mountains were utilised as Ski resorts; I felt I had to take a break from the journey to visit the “Porters” Ski Resort.

I drove on West until dusk by which time I had reached a town south of Christchurch called Ashburton. I headed down the deserted farmland gravel roads for about 20km in the direction of the sea and finally hit a “no exit” road. Luckily there was a small area that was sheltered and allowed me to park up Betty on the edge of the cliff. Once again the next morning I was awoken by a brilliant sunrise, watching the bright sun emerge from the blue sea was another sight I will not forget.

The next day the journey south to Dunedin was a real struggle – Betty was not well and the winds made it difficult. The views between the sea and the snow capped alpine mountains was nice though. I stopped at the town of Otago en route to visit the Yellow penguin and Blue penguin colonies, nothing spectacular but interesting nevertheless. The most exciting thing was the emergency manoeuvre I had to complete as a mattress flew off the roof of the Ute and onto the road in front of me. The driver of the Ute didn’t realise and thought I was being aggressive when I tried to alert him by flashing my lights. Eventually it dawned on him and he pulled over and I wish that I had a photo of his face when he realised the mattress was no longer where it should be!

I crawled into Dunedin late and stayed at the “top ten” campsite, watched the film Cinderella Man and pondered Betty’s life in my hands! The following morning I drove to a couple of garages and booked Betty in for a check up. This could not be done for a couple of days and so I moved into a hostel and left Betty to her fate.
The hostel was really pleasant and situated up a steep hill around 10 minutes walk from the centre of Dunedin. Dunedin was a very pleasant city with many attractive sights for the tourists and opportunities to explore the local area though outdoor pursuits. I visited the advertised “steepest road in the world” but to be honest walking around Dunedin there were many to choose from.
Students ruled the streets while I was there as it was the beginning of a new academic year. The first year fresher’s were enjoying the week long “orientation” activities and it was not unusual to see smurfs, tree people and cavemen staggering around.`

In the hostel I made friends with a couple of English girls, Claire and Helen, and spent a good few days with them exploring the local area and chilling out watching films. Highlights include a Bridget Jones evening (including a screening of the film and plenty of wine and chocolates) and walks on the Otago peninsular (including a close encounter with wild Sea Lions on the beach – there camouflage works well!).

During the time at the hostel I received the fateful call regarding Betty’s future, put simply she needed a new engine – the result cost did not make sense with how much I would sell her for so I took the decision to get rid of her as she was. The mechanics at the garage helpfully agreed (I bought them a few crates of beer) to arrange something and so she eventually ended up going to the wreckers yard!
It was a final sad act to remove her number plates and deregister her at the local AA. I was left with a large void in my life and will now take a few days to work out what I want to do next and how I will get there.

I’m starting by travelling back to Christchurch with Helen in their car Trevor. So until then its goodbye from me with a final farewell to Betty (RIP), our time was short but event packed and a lot of fun! I would not change it.

Friday, February 15, 2008

The long and winding road

Hello from a camp site somewhere on the South Island of NZ!

I am thoroughly enjoying the slow paced (vehicle speed controlled!) and winding roads through NZ. I finally managed to leave Christchurch on Tuesday afternoon after stocking up on supplies and camping essentials.
The journey to Akaroa was good and I decided on the scenic route to take in some of the passing beauty. Unfortunately this was hampered somewhat by the closing in of the weather and the mist reducing the speed further. However you could still get glimpses of the fantastic rugged landscape complete with beautiful lakes and raw coastal cliffs.

We headed south to the beautiful seaside resort of Akaroa and stayed in a “top 10” campsite. The campsite was well organised and contained showers, kitchen facilities, TV room and Internet.
On arrival at the camp we had an issue with the airbed in that the pump did not fit the bed. We ended up driving to a local petrol station and using the compressed air hose to fill the bed; judging by the bemused look on the faces of the locals this is not a frequent occurrence.
The first night in the van was surprisingly good and after a restful night’s sleep we enjoyed a very pleasant morning spent by the harbour drinking we set of back towards Christchurch.

En route there was some spectacular scenery and at lunchtime we stopped by a beautiful lake and cooked on our stove surrounded by a pair of interested chickens.
We drove for the rest of the afternoon and after passing Christchurch headed north and found a deserted beach (Amberley Beach) on which to free camp by the sea for the night. The stars were amazing and after cooking an exciting dinner (pasta) had a great night sleep.

The following morning I woke early to an amazing morning sky, the sun had not risen and the colours were breathtaking. The best sunrise I had ever seen.
We continued to head in a northerly direction but journeyed inland to the thermal town of Hanmer Springs. The town was like a small resort in the Alps and had a nice relaxed feel. We tried to arrange a horse ride for the afternoon but unfortunately it was fully booked and so we continued to head north towards Kaikoura. On stopping for lunch somewhere in the country we were invaded by a swarm of insects and mid way through eating had to flee the area; following many bites, especially to the feet, (and about 50km driven) the insects were finally gone.

Just north of Kaikoura we stopped to observe seals in a large colony at Ohau Point just next to the road. The seals were on the rocks and intent on not doing very much at all, simply enjoying the warmth of the sun and rocks – who can blame them!
By this stage it was early evening and we were all running low on fuel and energy. In NZ outside the main towns and cities fuel stations are very sparse – we ended up by pushing on with the petrol light on and found a deserted small (expensive) fuel station by the side of the road. As it was after 18:00 and it was a private, family station I was charged a $20 opening fee after I went to the cottage nearby and asked them to open!
Soon after we pulled off the road to camp at a site next to the sea and made dinner as the sun set.

From here the plans for Betty and me are a little hazy, I think that we’re going to head cross country through the wine region to the west coast and see a very different rugged (and probably wet) west coast. Betty is struggling a bit with the km’s that are piling on; she’s smoking every morning and drinking oil like an Irish man drinks stout. Hills are a constant struggle but the pace of life is great. If anyone has any particular advice or routes that they’ve travelled in NZ I’d be please to hear them. Otherwise take care and have fun.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Awesome times in Auckland

Does anyone want to lend/donate me some money?
After a few days spent in Auckland the price change has been massive! The hostel I’ve been staying in is very nice and well equipped (very professional in NZ) but costing £10 a night vs. £5 in South America makes a noticeable difference. All my budging has suddenly changed and the costs are similar to those in a city in the UK.

I must also confess that I have been burning the candle at both ends a bit and after my month not drinking I’m back with vengeance, not to mention memory loss and bad hangovers!

On Sunday 3rd in the afternoon me and one of my Irish friends decided at the last minute to go on an Americas Cup Sailing experience. The yacht was a retired Americas Cup vessel that was used by the Japanese Nikon team in the 1990’s. We rushed to the harbour and met up with the crew who gave us a full briefing and made clear that this experience was not a pleasure cruise. There were approx 4 crew and 10 guests. The sailing was fantastic , we all got hands on experience and tired limbs. The highlight was taking a turn at the wheel as skipper and navigating through the Auckland Bridge; I managed to get the yacht up to a speed of 10 knots
and tacked a few times with all hands on deck.

Following the sailing we went to an Irish bar to have an afternoon drink with the crew just next to the harbour in a smartly refurbished area called the Viaduct. We ended up having a few drinks more than anticipated and enjoyed drinking with the crew till I cannot remember. The last recollection I have was of singing very loudly to the live music while drinking copious amounts of Rum and Coke.
I awoke the next morning in my own bed (which was a good thing) and suddenly remembered that we had paid the previous day to do the SkyJump off the SkyTower.

The SkyJump is a 192m jump (connected to wire) with controlled decent to the ground below. To say that the hangover didn’t help me feel enthused about the jump ahead would be an understatement.
One the ledge of the leap I was nervous but the jump itself was over very quickly. I enjoyed it so much that I asked if I could have another go. As they weren’t busy I was allowed me a second jump and jumped off backwards to enhance the thrill. After the adrenaline kick dissipated the hangover was awoken. Relaxed for the rest of the day and went to the cinema and watched Sweeny Todd.

Auckland was hosting an International Buskers Festival during my visit and I took time to watch a few of the shows, very entertaining and eclectic mix of entertainment. Watching the Superbowl in a busy bar was also a great experience, being able to view the spectacle during the day and with passionate fans added to it. As one of the greatest upsets and with a thrilling climax it was a good way to spend a few hours.

On the Tuesday evening I made my way to Eden Park to watch the NZ vs. England Twenty20 Cricket match. The ground was buzzing and the match was really exciting, England winning was a bonus. Afterwards headed back to the Irish Bar at the Viaduct for a few Rum & Cokes with the yacht crew. At about midnight a group of lads turned up, on closer inspection it transpired that it was the majority of the victorious English cricket team. They were all out celebrating the victory and having a few beers. I was lucky enough to have a decent chat with Paul Collingwood, Ian Bell, Phil Mustard, and Ali Cooke.

The following day I again woke up with a sore head (again!) and struggled to pack for my afternoon flight to Christchurch. Leaving Auckland with a heavy heart I enjoyed my time in this vibrant small city. It has plenty to offer and the weather was certainly nice, I look forward to returning for my flight to Australia in the next few months.

Next stop Christchurch and a spell of time inside....

Jailhouse Rocks

Well I’ve been let out of jail today after a six night stay. I’m about to leave Christchurch by a different means of transport but more of that later.

Getting to jail was more of a problem than I’d anticipated despite only involving two buses. As I got on the second bus I thought that nothing strange was happening despite the fact the female driver did not charge me anything. As the driver pulled up outside the wrong hostel I discovered that the driver was heading back to the depot for the night and thought she was being helpful. After much confusion and swearing to the control room, the driver told me that she would give me a private tour of the city on the way back to the jail!

I was staying at a hostel on the outskirts of the city that was based in the old jail building. The hostel was very modern and finished very well. It was a bit strange to be sitting in the central area eating breakfast, I half expected Mr McKay to appear and give us an earful.

Christchurch is on the South Island of NZ and is a small city with a very colonial feel. The street names are a mixture of English/world locations and the first explorers/inhabitants. There is a magnificent cathedral, botanical gardens and punting on the river – you could be in an English city.
The weather was much cooler on the South Island, yet despite this I was able to explore the city easily on foot and enjoy all the magnificent attractions. I also watched the second NZ vs. England Twenty20 Cricket match (another English victory!) and enjoyed outdoor theatre in the form of a comedy show in the park.

I made the decision regarding transport around NZ and began the search for a Van! After visiting many sales and test driving a few vans I decided on a 1994 Mazda Bongo van. The next two days were spent arranging a pre purchase inspection, cash, new tyres, registration transfer, tax and a lemon check. The van is good value and despite a few nuances of a vehicle that’s covered 194,000km (smoke, rattles etc) I hope that it will be good enough to transport me round the Island for the next few months and will be going to the shops shortly to stock up on camping gear before heading off on the open road.

From now on access to the internet might be slightly more difficult but I’ll try and update you on the road trip shortly......

Friday, February 8, 2008

All New in Zealand

Hello,
Well it’s been a fair while since I last spoke to you all and I have to update you on my recent activities.

I got to Santiago following a smooth bus journey from Pichilemu and headed straight for the hostel. I was staying in a large hostel about 15 mins from the city centre. The hostel was extremely well run and enjoyed all the facilities possible including an outdoor swimming pool and the only cricket net in Santiago! I met many people who were on the same transpacific flight as me and made good friends with a group of Irish people from Cork and some English girls.
Santiago was a pleasant enough city that had some beautiful buildings, the atmosphere was very European and had a lot of cultural sites.
On the day of my flight (February 1st) I spoilt myself with a fresh cut throat shave at a traditional barbers. The barber was a perfectionist and the entire process lasted around an hour. It included three shaves; first an electric razor, second was a normal wet shave and finally the cut throat razor! I was also covered and recovered in towels (boiling and cold) numerous times and the kettle was boiled at least three times! The barber was very proud of all his trophies that adorned the shop and explained that the price was so high due to his qualifications and experience; I didn’t have the heart to tell him that £3.50 was not that much!

The airport and flight experience were fairly normal except for crossing the International Date Line and never experiencing the 2nd February 2008. A 13hr overnight flight is never that much fun, especially as I was stuck in the middle seat in the middle row of seats in the plane and got about 1hrs sleep!
We arrived at Auckland international at the staggering hour of 03:30 on Sunday 3rd February. My plan was to try and get into the city quickly and find a bar to watch the England vs. Wales rugby match as NZ is currently 13hrs ahead of GMT. Sadly this was not to be as I couldn’t get in and find a place in time. However I didn’t miss out on much judging by the result!

Going to close abruptly now as knackered as haven’t been to bed yet and going out to explore Auckland shortly. I’ll update you soon on the fun to be had on Auckland before I head further south to Christchurch on the South Island of New Zealand.